Masquerade: Following the Money

Breast cancer rates have been climbing steadily in industrialised countries since the 1940s, amounting to more than one million cases per year worldwide, even though billions of dollars have been spent on breast cancer research, including millions of dollars raised by cosmetic companies such as Estee Lauder and Avon through their Pink Ribbon product sales and fundraisers.

Currently, the largest of these events are the Avon Walks for Breast Cancer. Sponsored in a number of regions throughout the world, the walk is produced by a private, for-profit company. Walkers must raise or contribute at least US$1750 to participate, and they must have health insurance. The walks have raised up to US$12 million each, but the costs associated with producing and advertising the walk are taken from the funds raised by the walkers. As a result more than a third of the money raised from each walk has gone towards covering administrative and marketing expenses.

Of the money that does make it to breast cancer programs, the vast majority is unlikely to bring about changes that will stem ever-increasing breast cancer rates. Furthermore, most of the funding directed to research is granted to large cancer centres that already have access to ample funds through the government and pharmaceutical companies.

While it is questionable how much women with breast cancer benefit by such affairs, who clearly benefits are the cosmetic companies, due to the large-scale marketing such campaigns afford, and the sales of Pink Ribbon-ed products. But does women’s health benefit, when so many of these cosmetics contain harmful chemicals linked to breast cancer?

Since National Breast Cancer Awareness Month started in 1984, it has helped open a public dialogue about a disease that kills more than 40,000 women a year. Since then, hundreds of millions of dollars have been raised to fund breast cancer research, education and medical services.

Estee Lauder Companies is recognised for its long-term significant contribution to breast cancer research. Since it was founded in 1993 by Evelyn Lauder, the Breast Cancer Research Foundation has raised $146 million towards funding clinical and genetic research worldwide. In 2000 Estee Lauder, as a way of drawing attention to October, initiated the Global Illumination where significant landmarks and monuments around the world are lit pink to welcome the start of Breast Cancer Month.

But Estee Lauder is also one of the companies whose products are listed among those of highest concern on the Skin Deep database, due to the dangerous chemicals in their products. Their lipsticks might be wrapped in a pink ribbon to raise funds for breast cancer research, but what chemicals are inside their lipsticks? Given that the average woman consumes over 2.7 kilos of lipstick in her lifetime, it is definitely wise to to start asking some questions.

There’s a growing backlash of critics who fear that pink has become just another marketing tool. Some critics are put off by the notion of ‘Shopping for the Cure.’
One of the first groups to voice objections to the commercialisation of pink was Breast Cancer Action, a US advocacy group whose campaign ‘Think Before You Pink’ encourages well-meaning customers to do their research before they participate in a pink initiative.

Critics want to know if more money is spent marketing pink-ribbon products than ultimately goes toward breast cancer research. What kind of projects do the funds support? Do they support early detection or cancer prevention? Do funds help underserved women gain access to medical care? How much goes to research possible environmental causes? And most importantly, what percentage of proceeds from sales actually goes toward these efforts?

Samantha King, author of Pink Ribbons, Inc.: Breast Cancer and the Politics of Philanthropy, says, ‘Marketing people point to breast cancer as the example of how cause-related marketing can increase profit margins.’ She believes that consumers sincerely want to help the cause but fears ‘their good intentions are being exploited’.

With thanks to the Breast Cancer Action www.bcaction.org Click here for

Published as part of a larger feature, Kindred issue 22

Click here for Masquerade: Birth defects, cancer, infertility, precocious puberty… the ugly truths behind the beauty industry
Click here for Masquerade: Magic Potions and Cures
Click here for Masquerade- 10 Harmful chemicals in cosmetics
Click here for Masquerade: The Breast Cancer Link